I stood there as the wave came crashing over me. I tried to jump up, to get over top of it, but it broke just as it hit me, dragging me under the water with it. I twist and turn, feet hitting the sand, just to pop back up out of the water just in time for the next wave.
My eyes are burning. It feels like I swallowed fire. My fingers and palms scream in pain as I grip my board with all my will power.
But then a beautiful wave comes towards me, and this time I’m ready!
Sliding onto the board, I paddle with all my might towards the shore.
I feel the wave touch my feet.
One, two, three more paddles.
I leap on top of the surf board, and bend my knees, staring straight ahead, and ride that wave all the way to the shore.
Holy crap I’m surfing!
On Monday I took the train to Surf Camp Australia, one of the best surf camps around. It took 2 hours to get there, but I made some amazing friends on the way there, who I later roomed with for my 5 day stay at the camp.
Basically, in 5 days you learn how to surf.
If anybody knows me, I don’t like sports. I have virtually no balance, and I didn’t know what I would think of surfing. I joined the camp on a whim – the amazing salesman talked me into it at orientation. $500 for 5 days didn’t seem too bad.
We went out every morning and afternoon, learning new skills and honing them in the ocean. It was incredibly draining. Actually, surfing was probably the most physically and mentally draining thing I have ever done, but it was also one of the funnest.
It took a couple of days to get the hang of it, needless to say it’s incredibly difficult to find balance on a piece of foam on the open ocean. The instructors were awesome, staying with you until you got the hang of it and were able to stand.
Unfortunately for me, surfing didn’t come without its price.
These were my hands after surfing for 4 days. On the 4th and 5th day I had to tape them up, as I was determined to not let it ruin my surfing. As painful as it was, I was so happy I pushed through the pain. The final day was the best day of surfing we got. The sun was shining, we were all dressed up, and the waves were beautiful.
I have fallen in love with surfing. Head over heels. Quite literally (falling off the surf board isn’t always graceful). And I’m thinking about buying a surf board to continue practicing during my stay in Australia. There are beaches literally everywhere.
I just have to stay away from Western Australia. Cause, ya know, sharks.